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    令張愛玲高傲的旗袍

    發布于:2019-01-02 12:01  ┊ 閱讀  ┊  人參與  ┊ 文 / 梁衛山


      捧起張愛玲的《花樣年華》《心經》讀著,讀著讀著不禁想起了穿旗袍的張愛玲,那個不太美、身著一襲華美的旗袍、淡笑著,婉約而至的幽艷的倩影。張愛玲生于落魄的貴族家庭,受過世人羨慕的良好的教育,經歷過家道中落的世事變遷,又經歷過情感的背叛。她攜一身出世的才華,走過生命里的萬水千山,紅塵里坎坷的朝朝暮暮,寫出了《花樣年華》《心經》《沉香屑•第一爐香》《沉香屑•第二爐香》《傾城之戀》《紅玫瑰與白玫瑰》《郁金香》《半生緣》《色,戒》《小團圓》等37部小說;《遲暮》《秋雨》等散文著作;《論卡通畫之前途》《牧羊者素描》《牧羊者素描》等12篇書評;《走!走到樓上去》《有女同車》《愛》等《小品三則》;國語本《海上花》譯后記;英譯本序《〈海上花〉的幾個問題》……她每一個姿勢,每一次現身,都是傾城的優雅。直到暮年,了卻紅塵之時,仍是一身華美的旗袍,安享從容,仍是臨水照花人。

      有人說:真正的優雅,經得起歲月。就像身穿旗袍的張愛玲,可以在繁華云煙中華麗綻放,也可以在世事蒼涼中,攜一份平和,安忍于世。就像這垂柳,可以在春暖花開,萬象更新的日子里,灑脫飄逸,彰顯魅力;更在惡略的天氣,寒冷的冬季,保持淡弱不驚的心性,舞動裊裊身姿,展現飽滿豐盈的靈魂。

      張愛玲幼時曾放言:“八歲我要梳愛司頭,十歲我要穿高跟鞋,十六歲我可以吃粽子湯團,吃一切難以消化的東西。”對于美的早熟,或許來自母親的遺傳。她的母親黃逸梵是湘軍水師提督之后,骨子里有湘女的果敢,又是個思想前衛的新女性,會畫畫、彈鋼琴,曾與徐悲鴻、蔣碧薇等人深交。張愛玲十二歲時,得到人生中第一筆稿費,旋即去買了一只小號丹琪唇膏。愛美之心,由此一發不可收拾。可不幸的是她的家庭發生了變故,由于父母思想沖突嚴重,母親選擇留洋進修,父親之后再娶妻子。繼母有阿芙蓉癖,曾與各媛陸小曼同榻吞云吐霧。繼母對待愛玲十分苛刻,過門時將自己的兩大箱舊衣扔給她穿。

      此時,張愛玲正就讀于貴族化的女校,周邊皆是打扮時新、新潮的女孩,而她卻只能揀繼母穿剩的衣服穿。那些衣服不是磨損了邊角,就是款式陳舊,令她十分難堪,“碎牛肉顏色”的薄棉袍更是成了她青春期里抹不去的傷疤。就是這個以自戀和孤傲出名的女作家,那時候卻沉默寡言,看起來十分纖弱。她身形修長,線條流暢如畫,從頸脖到腰身順勢而下,勾勒出一個薄而長的倩影。她由衷于穿素灰的旗袍,她那苗條、修長的身體被包裹在素灰的旗袍中,清瘦得幾乎不見,如一縷似有還無的詩魂。

      到了三十年代初七月的一天,張愛玲身著素雅的絲質碎花旗袍,肋下夾著一個報紙包,走進了福州路晝錦里附近的中央書店。報紙包中就是日后發表在《萬象》上的小說《心經》和她自己繪制的插畫。這身普通上海的裝束,是張愛玲一生中少有的保守造型,像是林黛玉初入賈府,謹小慎微。之后的幾年里,張愛玲的文紅遍上海灘,她急吼吼地喊著:“出名要趁早”。她憑借筆桿子獲得了可觀的收入,終于在父親面前抬起頭,也有了立足于世的底氣。而少女時期穿舊衣服留下的陰影在此時徹底爆發!

      你看一襲旗袍的張愛玲,那一片式的旗袍加身,顯出了身體的線條流暢優美。此時的旗袍,削減了腰身,放低了領口,寬大的喇叭袖漸漸縮短收窄,行動之時,步履前后交錯,不經意似地露出珠白圓潤的玉腿,修長曼妙。被禁錮了幾千年的身體,驟然蘇醒。西風漸進,傳統的中國裁縫也開始借鑒西方剪裁,設計出更加立體貼身的旗袍。鏤空的領與袖,皮毛珠翠的裝飾,還有時新的外國面料,都成了旗袍上的新元素。傳統與現代就這么握手言歡,彷佛在一夕之間達成和解。從此,旗袍勾勒出的婀娜線條,成了舊時上海的海岸線。當然,到了此時,旗袍再也不是單槍匹馬的行頭。時髦的女子在旗袍外披上裘皮大衣、披肩、線衫,以適應四季更迭。夏季的旗袍則被減省至無袖或短袖,薄汗輕衣透,自有一種嫵媚風情。此時的上海被稱作東方巴黎,這里的時尚潮、張愛玲式的新女性著裝旗袍,通過月份牌傳播到全國各地,影響著一代人衣食住行。

      如今,才女、作家張愛玲被看作是舊上海的一個符號。其實,對于張愛玲來說,上海這座城才是她的審美胎教。在上海,摩登與傳統并存,東方與西方互相滲透,這個大熔爐賜予了她與生俱來的藝術天賦。她對美的癡迷,超出常人,似乎全身毛孔都呼吸著美感,對氣味、聲音、顏色的感觸也極其敏銳。她的文字像是濡濕的顏料盤,絢爛陸離,一不留神那些色彩就會隨時流動,形成另一幅風景。

      張愛玲的作品偏重寫人物的心理,本人也偏愛鮮明的對照,沉重的黑與輕盈的白,清冷與明麗,簡約的現代線條與傳統花紋,皆是她的心頭好。她為自己設計的許多旗袍亦是如此,愈激烈愈著迷。在香港念書之時,她就將獎學金全數拿去買衣料做衣服,并且樂此不疲。她還獨創了很多穿法,譬如說在旗袍外邊罩件短襖,在旗袍外穿上清裝大襖和浴衣,別有一番風情。她熱戀時愛穿“能聞得見香氣”的桃紅單旗袍,繡著雙鳳的繡花鞋。她曾在香港淘到一塊廣東土布,刺目的玫瑰紅上印著粉紅花朵,嫩綠的葉子,印在深藍或碧綠地上。這布在鄉下也只有嬰兒才穿,她卻做成了衣服,穿著四處招搖,“仿佛穿著博物院的名畫到處走,遍體森森然”。

      張愛玲信奉驚世駭俗的美學,衣不驚人死不休。她去看望蘇青的時候,身著怪異的服裝,引得弄堂里的孩童在身后追趕。還有一次,她去印刷廠校對,工人們齊齊停工,駐足觀看她的奇裝。這些矚目令她十分滿足,彷佛瞬間揚眉吐氣,一掃少時的服裝陰影。她曾經告訴旁人:“要想人家在那么多人里只注意你一個,就得去找你祖母的衣服來穿。”那人嚇了一跳:“穿祖母的衣服不是穿壽衣了嗎?”張愛玲回答:“那有什么關系,別致就行!”

      她本人就像是一個調色盤,一切不協調的色彩、裝束到了她身上,都顯得合理而隆重。張愛玲曾說:“對于不會說話的人,衣服是一種語言,隨身帶著的是袖珍戲劇。”張氏小說中,旗袍亦是出鏡率最高的道具。《沉香屑•第一爐香》中的葛薇龍以女學生的身份出場,竹布衫外面加上一件絨線背心,處處透露出一個內地少女的不合時宜。經歷過梁太太的調教之后,她開始穿磁青薄綢旗袍,增添了幾分成熟,亦有妖嬈氣息。而白流蘇這個“擅長低頭”的東方佳人,與范柳原初見之時,穿的一襲月白蟬翼紗旗袍,婉約中流露出性感的意味,難怪可以吸人眼球。

      《金鎖記》中,老姜長安亦是憑借旗袍下的中國風情俘獲情人。更不用提被李安改編過的《色戒》,電影少了些尖刻與殘酷,被打磨得太過溫和,簡直不像張愛玲。倒是湯唯身上不斷變換的旗袍,總提醒我們這的確是張氏作品。在現代人眼中,張愛玲便是旗袍最忠實的捍衛者。五十年代初,在上海召開第一屆文藝代表大會,夏衍惜才,邀請張愛玲參加了。此時,旗袍在大陸幾近絕跡,大會上不論男女,一水兒的藍灰中山裝,唯獨她還穿著旗袍,外面罩了網眼白絨線衫。這身衣服對她來說已經十分素凈收斂,可在當時看來依舊扎眼。張愛玲深知,自己的時代已經過去了。她無法想象沒有旗袍的上海。于是,像少年時那般,她計劃了另一場出逃。幾經輾轉之后,她終于定居美國。那個曾經與她惺惺相惜的城市也不復存在,唯一沒有背叛她的便是服裝、便是令她高傲的旗袍。

      

    責任編輯:池墨 作者文集 作者聲明
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