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    綻放在棠梨樹上的記憶

    發布于:2019-04-24 18:51  ┊ 閱讀  ┊  人參與  ┊ 文 / 吊腳樓

      老家的村子叫后方灣,地處江漢平原腹地,灣子里雜姓少,幾乎清一色方姓,約莫七八十戶人家,灣子的后面有一片野生棠梨樹,足有百畝之闊。江漢平原河渠縱橫,溝溝汊汊像絲瓜藤子,相互交織,彼此貫通,田埂、堤防一側、灘涂都長有許多速生的木本植物。速生樹木以楊柳為主,在四野皆是垂柳柔楊的水鄉,后方灣的棠梨樹就是異類了。

      這片棠梨樹成林于何時,無典籍可考,也無口傳。老人們說,這片棠梨樹林至少都在百年以上。依據很茍簡,是根據一棵老棠梨樹推斷出來的。老棠梨樹生在林子的中央,高十多米,樹圍近三尺,虬枝蒼勁,樹冠遮天蔽日。樹身斑駁,豎條節理像一道道寬窄有異、深淺不同的溝溝壑壑。有的節理縫隙大峽谷一般,幾乎要把一棵樹分成兩半。“裂谷”中堆積了厚厚的、黑黢黢的腐殖質,腐殖質上又滋生出另一棵棠梨樹。棠梨樹長得慢,不經百年,是斷然不會如此蒼勁粗糲的。

      另一個依據也有來由。聽說后方灣還有一稱,叫棠梨樹方家灣。有從灣子里走出,流落到海峽那邊的臺灣老兵,他們回來尋親,念叨的祖地名稱就是“棠梨樹方家灣”。后來,一些祖上就流浪在外的方姓后裔尋根問祖時,也是嘴里銜著”棠梨樹方家灣”才尋得根基的。人們掐指一算,這些外出的祖輩出走至今,有五六代之遠了,他們的后裔還記得“棠梨樹方家灣”,說明這棠梨樹林子的百年之老,該是確鑿無疑了。

      灣子里的人一直把棠梨樹叫棠柳樹。這錯訛大概是村前村后柳樹多,梨柳音近,就順著叫了。至于緣起何時,也無實證。后來的叫法歸于正統,緣于對棠梨樹的特性有了新的認識。棠梨樹花期長達四五個月。早春剛跨過三月的門檻,其他花木的花萼還沉睡在綠葉的襁褓中,棠梨樹花就拽著春姑娘的羅裳,緊趕慢趕地綻放開了。棠梨樹花有花瓣五片,般般大,乳白色,又暗含一絲不易察覺的淺綠,清雅、素樸。花蕊四周有褐色的細莖,嫩莖細溜溜的,少女的纖指一般。早起的飛蟲趴在花蕊上,悶著頭吸食花粉,靜若處子,并不擔心有同伴過來搶食。

      千樹萬樹梨花開,晨曦也是微醺了,漫不經心的鋪展過來,而棠梨樹的上空則是云蒸霞蔚,白色的水霧從容、淡定,懶洋洋地向四周徜徉。陽光射過來,穿過飄飄渺渺的霧障,穿過棠梨樹的枝枝椏椏,形成一道道耀眼的光柵。微風吹過,棠梨樹身子一動,棠梨花便輕輕一顫,仿佛情郎蹁躚而至,棠梨花不得已深情款款、嬌羞地柳腰一欠,又歸于沉靜、矜持。

      棠梨樹性子急,孟春三月就結果實了。果子青褐色,大若蓮子米,橢圓形,學名叫杜梨。牛背上的牧童信手摘下三五粒,在衣襟上囫圇一擦,連忙送進嘴巴,上下牙一磕:“哎呀,我的媽耶,狗日的,好澀啊!”一邊說,一邊咂巴著嘴巴往外吐。棠梨樹的果期長,有十個月之久。剛結出的小梨子,青皮,硬實,皮上有均勻分布的小白點。及至秋天,白露過,秋霜凍,果子飽經風霜后,皮色已是深褐色,果肉疲軟,放在手心,只可兩指輕合,不然就會流出淡黃的果汁。這時的棠梨果算是牧童們的珍饈了。他們站在牛背上,拽著樹枝,忙不迭地一顆一顆地往嘴巴里塞。張三說,李四剛吃的棠梨果上有鳥屎,李四一陣“呸呸呸”,吐了出來,用袖頭揩了嘴巴,繼續吃。小女孩眼饞,眼巴巴地看著男孩吃得津津有味,直吞口水。心善的男孩,就勢掰下一枝,朝女孩甩過去:“接到,別吃多了啊,小心拉稀屎。”女孩文靜,翹起蘭花指剝皮,指法稔熟、輕盈,唇間一吮,吐了梨瓠,再吃下一個。

      有的地方用梨花做梨花糕,據說味道很好。周作人有一篇《北京的梨花糕》,饞倒許多皇城人。作家汪曾祺是個美食家,也寫過梨花糕,讀得我滿口生津。我沒這口惠,不曾吃過他們筆下的梨花糕,但我吃過母親做的梨花雞蛋糕,那是我一生都忘不掉的滋味。

      母親說,帶露水的梨花最適合做梨花雞蛋糕。她說,這時的梨花陽氣多,花葉子香氣足。采得梨花,漂洗、溫水焯,風干、切碎,拌蔥花、姜沫、蒜泥,一小勺炒米,與蛋清蛋黃一起攪拌后,倒入油鍋。雞蛋成塊,刀切菱形,置于瓷碗,竹籠蒸少許,再蓋澆三兩鍋鏟高湯,撒一小撮蔥花。這梨花雞蛋糕黃燦燦的,雖是沒有多少梨花介入的特別味道,但咀嚼之中,靈魂的味蕾,似有蛋香、蔥香、梨花香絲絲縷縷的撫慰。

      后方灣享受過這片棠梨樹的不少恩惠。它生長在后方灣的正北邊,冬天里,北風嘶嚎,大有摧枯拉朽的架勢。那時,日子都過得緊巴,民居多茅草房,磚瓦結構的房屋也不結實,其他灣子常有房屋被北風吹塌,后方灣因了這片棠梨樹做屏障,素無倒墻塌檁之覷。尤其到了汛期,后方灣洪水四合,孤島樣漂浮著,但村民從不耽于洪水對臺基的沖刷。棠梨樹林像后方灣忠實的兒子,冬天擋風,汛期擋浪,一年又一年,灣里的祖祖輩輩都過著安穩的日子。

      一九七三年,這片棠梨樹的陽壽到了。“以糧為綱”至大至上,棠梨樹倒在了一紙昏令中。那天,幾臺“東方紅”拖拉機轟隆隆地開進了棠梨樹林,鋼絲纜繩一頭系在“東方紅”的屁股上,一頭箍在棠梨樹的腰身。拖拉機干吼一聲,往前一躥,煙囪喘著粗氣,冒出一股黑煙,一棵棵棠梨樹壯士般依次倒下。樹梢驚鴻起,樹下野獸奔,棠梨樹殘敗的枝葉,在拖曳中發出吱吱呀呀的呻吟,似乎還眷顧著生養它的故土。

      站在高臺上的鄉紳一邊搖頭,一邊嘆息:“這是吃祖宗的飯啊!造孽啊!”

      早先的蔭蔽突然空闊了,后方村像一個褪下了羅衫的婦人,孤零零地站在世人面前。綠蔭不再,鳥語不再。一只蒼鷹在天空盤旋,它在尋找失去的家園。

      棠梨樹被分到了各家各戶,一做家什,一做柴燒。我父親選了幾棵粗壯的做八仙桌。我家的飯桌是祖上留下的,年代久遠,四腳不齊,不敷使用了。請了木匠,父親再三叮囑,棠梨樹質硬,容易碎斷,鑿眼對榫當要小心。棠梨樹再也沒有了,若有差池,哪里能尋得這么好的木料呢。木匠做了兩天,父親監工樣圍著木匠轉了兩天,生怕有了閃失。

      父親長期患白內障,眼拙。八仙桌做好后,他貓著腰刮膩子。說是刮,卻是用手抹。母親說,買一把刮膩子的刀具。父親不肯,舍不得錢。他說,肉是可以長的,皮破了,困幾個覺就長好了。他生怕縫隙處進不了膩子,他幾乎是頭貼著桌子,用指甲把膩子往縫隙里塞。打磨幾次桐油后,飯桌黃橙橙、亮煞煞的,幾如銅鏡,光可鑒人。

      那天,用新桌子吃飯。幾個農家小菜剛端上桌,父親端起酒杯,往地上灑酒,嘴里卻不言語。母親說,又不是過年敬祖宗菩薩,玩的是個么鬼花腳烏龜?(名堂義)父親說,往回(過去義)做三節棍之類的冷兵器,用的都是棠梨樹。沒有了棠梨樹,打架都沒有結實家伙了。

      后方灣跟鄰村的左家灣有很深的結怨,方左兩姓間的宗族械斗的諸多冷兵器,都是用棠梨樹做的,打在身上夯實,而且交戰起來,方姓總是贏家。父親是擔心沒了棠梨樹而使方姓失去一個所向無敵的王朝。

      那年,生活發生變故,我家賣了祖屋,一家老少外遷。父親把所有的家什都送人了,唯獨留下那方棠梨樹做的八仙桌。父親說,看到棠梨樹八仙桌,就像看到了那片棠梨樹林和林中走獸的奔襲,那飛禽的啁啾也仿佛縈繞在耳際。父親也有年少時,棠梨樹定然也給過他不曾忘卻的童趣,留在他心里的棠梨樹,絕非他和他那代人的記憶,他的上輩以至祖輩的尋常日子,都與棠梨樹有過千絲萬縷的情感鏈接。只是到了我這一代,后方灣才揖別了這片百年棠梨樹林,而那萬叢梨花卻生生不息地綻放在后方灣人的記憶里。一時鵝黃,一時粉嫩,任歲月荏苒,都不曾凋敝過。分享:

      

    責任編輯:胡俊月 作者文集 作者聲明
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